Septiembre 18

I made it! I’m in South Africa! Seriously, until I didn’t have the stamp on my passport allowing me in I really wasn’t going to believe it. The plane ride was 18 hours…the longest I have EVERY been on a plane and I’m just dreading the way back because this time around I had 1 night in Washington, next time I get to Washington and fly directly to Panama with only a 2 hour window to get to my next plane (which I am totally nervous about because getting through security and immigration is a bitch).

On the plane I met a woman from Zimbabwe sitting next to me and a girl from Minnesota who was moving to Port Elizabeth to be with her husband. She was really nice and we exchanged info so now I have someone to hang out with when I go to P.E!

We got in to JBurg at 5p.m: I am carrying my big ass backpack, my very geavy carry on with all my camera gear AND my old backpack which is simply REALLY uncomfortable to carry, plus my small backpack with my computer. You can imagine how heavy all this is and how crazy I must seem walking through the airport, trying to get my Gautrain ticket and then actually getting to Rosebank station. Luckily everyone here is very nice so a girl helped me on the bus, especially when I had to carry all my stuff up three different stairs (I swear I was gonna faint at some point).

I met Natasha (my friends’ Sebastian friend) at the Rosebank station and she brought me back to her place. She works at a company focusing on brining volunteers from abroad and getting internships and jobs for people abroad and lives at the guesthouse where she works. Im basically here in hiding because no one except a couple of co-workers know I’m here. I hope I don’t get her in trouble.

We get back to her place, and they were making  a “brai” (BBQ) which was delicious. Anyone who knows me knows I don’t really like eating meat much but this was yummy, lamb chops and then something that sounds a bit like Bratwurst (but it isn’t) which is basically like a chorizo made out of meat…but It doesn’t taste like chorizo or bratwurst…yea, I didn’t really say anything right there :p IT WAS GOOD.

We hung out for a while, I tried speaking some Afrikaans or Zulu but I’m pretty sure I failed at it. I think South Africans have the capacity to learn almost any language because most of them are trilingual, speaking English, Afrikaans and then another language depending on where they go to school. All these languages have so many different sounds so they have the capacity to pronounce very well other languages like Spanish for example.

Close to midnight the lights went off so we just went to bed pretty soon after that. Turns out I wasn’t as jet lagged as I thought so I was able to get a full nights sleep (I didn’t sleep almost at all the second half of the flight, from Daqar to JBurg so I could settle in with the time zone better). Today the day is beautiful, its probably like 19-21C, the sun is out, and I’m going to go out and change money, get a phone, buy some shampoo and stuff I didn’t bring.  My first outing in Johannesburg.

EN ESPAÑOL

Bueno, ahora en español! Logré llegar a Sudáfrica! La verdad no estuve tranquila hasta que la señora de migración me puso la estampilla en el pasaporte. El vuelo duro 18 horas, incluyendo una parada de 1 h en Dakar que no tenia idea que iba a hacer (ni yo ni otros en el avión). La primera mitad del vuelo dormí casi todo el camino, ya después de la parada en Dakar que eran como las 7am de acá trate de no dormir casi para acostumbrarme al cambio de horario. Creo que funciono, aun tengo un poquito de sueño pero pude dormir bien anoche.

En el avión conocí a una gringa super querida de Minnesota (y si, tiene un acento chistoso en algunas palabras como Marshal de HIMYM), que se casó con un Sudafricano así que se vino a vivir a Port Elizabeth unos meses. Básicamente, ya tengo conocida en P.E y donde quedarme J.

Llegamos a Johannesburgo a las 5 p.m y mientras hice migración, espere maletas (las mías fueron de las ultimas), cambie un poquito de plata y logré conseguir un tiquete al tren (todo esto con morral grande a mis espaldas, morral pequeño colgándome enfrente, carry on pesadísimo con todo mi equipo de fotografía Y otro morral vacío que no se porque me puse a cargar hasta acá y del que tengo que deshacerme porque en verdad es solo un encarte gigante). Con todo esto encima tuve que coger el tren, hacer cambio de estación y después subir 3 escaleras distintas para llegar a la salida que por suerte salí por donde era así que me encontré con Natasha de una.

Vinimos a su casa/oficina que queda muy cerquita a la estación y estaban haciendo un “brai” (BBQ) como de bienvenida que se me hizo muy chévere. Como ella vive donde trabaja (una empresa que trae voluntarios y manda a gente a trabajar afuera) estoy aquí como a escondidas y solo 2 de la oficina saben que estoy acá. Por hoy y mañana me toca estar aquí a escondidas! Hablamos un buen rato, intenté hablar un poco de Afrikaans y Zulu pero que vainas tan difíciles de pronunciar! Me da una envidia de la buena que todos aca hablen dos o tres idiomas mínimo: ingles, afrikaans y otro dependiendo de la región (hay 11 idiomas oficiales en Sudáfrica para los que no sabian). Claramente para los sudafricanos aprender cualquier idioma es mamey porque pueden pronunciar una cantidad de sonidos. Después de un rato se fue la luz asi que nos fuimos a dormir, la verdad no tenia mucho sueño porque en mi cabeza eran como las 4 de la tarde pero logré dormirme.

Hoy el día esta hermoso, el clima rico como en 19-22C  y con cielo azul y sol afuera. Ya estoy lista para salir a comprar mi telefono, cambiar plata y conocer por aca cerca. Trataré de comprar un USB de esos que dan Internet porque aparentemente el Internet en Sudáfrica es una porqueria, no hay WiFi en ningún lado y yo quiero poder subir mis cosas a Internet a menudo.

Esperando el shuttle al aerepuerto, preocupada de que quiza yahubiese pasado y me  hubiese dejado

1 hora en Dakar...

Chao Dakar!

Great entertainment, me vi 2 peliculas y 3 programas de TV

Llegue a territorio Sudafricano!

Un "braai" de bienvenida

Lamp Chops y Boerewors 

Yo con frio , como siempre, asi que me pegue al fuego

Travel Day 1

Monday September 17, 2012. 14:40

Well ,I’m here! In the waiting room…waiting. The flight is a bit delayed apparently because boarding time was at 2:15 ant its 2:40 (I hope I’m in the right place). I still feel very anxious and nervous, not about the flying but about the whole getting in the country, not having my bags lost, you know…all that annoying airport stuff which is simply annoying to deal with.

I still don’t know the dates of what I’ll be doing but I certainly have things in mind I definitely want to do! Diving..for sure! I’m planning to hike Drakensberg which seems AMAZING (even though I’m a bit scared of the actual hiking, mainly because I don’t want to feel like I’m the one lagging behind and I probably will be). I have my month at Thanda which I’m super excited about, still not sure if I’ll be able to go Oct-Nov instead of Nov-Dec (hopefully I will be). I’m also planning on doing the Baz Bus from Joh-Cape Town or Joh-Port Elizabeth, it all depends on dates basically.

Monday September 17, 2012. 15:50

Im flying! The sun is out, it’s a beautiful day, blue sky, little clouds. I honestly tried not to be scared, I really wasn’t…until the plane started to go through the runway, and those initial 10 minutes are just not my favorite time of the day. Luckily its been a smooth ride so far – FUCK, seriously?! I just typed that and in less than 10 seconds the plane starts shaking…I’m freaking out here, I really don’t like the shaking – it isn’t like the time I got my crazy on, but it would still be nice to be able to squeeze someone’s hand at least! Ugh…it wont stop! Ok…it seems to be calming down a bit.

Honestly I am so tired I can’t even write much…I slept like 3-4 hours last night and I’ve been waking up at 2, 3 and 4 am for over a week to check my email because that’s the time I get S.A emails. So far, its all going good…again, I’m nervous about the whole immigrations process, its really isn’t fun for me and I wish the world didn’t have all these borders (for that we would need the world to be in peace and well, sadly history has showed us that is impossible…so far!)

I’m hungry, ate an early lunch and was way too nervous to eat before getting on so now I think im gonna have to pay $4 for a bag of potato chips (que robo!).

The pilot just spoke, if im not mistaken I land at 8pm in Miami which is not too good seeing as my plane leaves at 9 and I have to go through customs AND immigration! I hope It’ll be fast and I have enough time to buy some FOOD before hopping on.

K, goodnighty for now! Nap time!

Monday September 17, 2012. 21:45

Im on my way to Washington Dulles! Miami airport wasn’t that bad, the people were actually very nice…the immigation officer was extra chatty which was nice when you talked to him but it was a serious pain having to wait for him to get through everyone in line because it took forever! It’s also so different once you have to check in to domestic flights, airport security is seriously stressful…the lines are not only long (that is something you can deal with) but its just they make you take all kinds of things out of your bag, your shoes and then rush you out so I clearly almost left my laptop which would have been AWFUL.

I think part of the lesson I’m supposed to learn from this whole experience is patience…and letting go of things. My visa didn’t get here on time, I had to cancel one of my programs, my flight was late, and then I had to wait more than anyone else in line during immigration. I’m all for learning things but I just hope I don’t get a crazy lesson tomorrow on my way to Johannesburg.

I didn’t get much sleep my past flight and had like 15min to connect flights after immigration, customs, security and then getting to gate so I could only eat half of a very expensive sandwich and now my eyes are like on fire! Not sleeping is not good…

Tuesday, September 18 2012. 1:21 am

I made it! Remind me never again to get a shuttle so late at night, I had to wait for 45 min before we left! Next time, I rather pay more but get some sleep! G’night!!

My battle: Getting to South Africa

I'm Colombian, I'm proud of it but damn it can be seriously frustrating at times, mainly when it comes to traveling. Having that burgundy red passport is like having the coodies or something, any consulate, embassy or airport will simply look down on you or catalogue you as "guilty" for drug dealing, drug consumig, drug producing, prostitution, you name it. So, you can imagine what an ordeal it is for anyone with a little burgundy passport to get a visa to go, well..basically anywhere! Even though there are countries that don't require colombians to have a visa (mainly South America which in the past years has "opened up") you basically have to get a transit visa in order to get to them.

I have traveled to the following countries, all of whom have required for me to apply for a visa: U.S.A, The Netherlands, Spain, Germany, Austria, Italy (all these Schengen), Czech Republic, Switzerland, Mexico, Costa Rica and Guatemala. Argentina and Peru have been two countries I have been to that don't require visa for colombians.

Now, as you all may know im planning to go to South Africa. Off course I need a visa to go to South Africa...so, I sent my papers and they arrived at the consulate the 30th of July. I waited 10 days before calling because those were the days it took for the process of the visa to go through. The 10th day I call...and I get told that my papers aren't ready and I need a stamp on some documents, yata yata yata. Long story short, basically a whole other month goes by with failed calls, getting hung up on by the oh-so-nice secretary from the consulate and a lot of un-responded emails. (btw, the consulate of South Africa dealing with Colombians is in Venezuela).  I hear from other colombians who have traveled to South Africa and learn I am not the only one, some got their passports 2 hours before heading to the airport, another 2 days before leaving...basically last minute.

So, my flight is scheduled to leave tomorrow September 12th at 3 p.m to Washington Dulles via Miami. My flight to South Africa is scheduled to leave September 13th from Washington Dulles at 5:30 p.m. 
My visa was approved yesterday, Monday September 10, at 3:30 pm. I ran over to DHL and begged the guy so my passport would be picked up today and I could have it here in Panama by tomorrow Wednesday before noon. Papers are sent, things are on their way. Today I hear from the woman at the consulate telling me that without an air guide the guy from DHL won't take my passport because its happened before. I call DHL dude in Panama and he tells me the guide will be made when the thing is picked up, he doesn't create the guide but Venezuela DHL created the guide. Ok, so I wait...(mind you, Hugo Chaves decided for some crazy ass reason that Venezuela time was 30min ahead than it actually should be so, 3 here is 3:30 there, and at 4 they closed the consulate). By 3:30 the DHL guy hadn't gone to pick up the passport, I gave up. Suddenly I get a call that the guy is there but there is no guide so he won't take it. Long story short, I'm screwed. Big time screwed. The consulate is closed, the guy left because there was no guide, there is absolutely NO chance of my passport getting to Panama before   my flight. It can get here Thursday morning.

Before I even knew I had my visa approved (I emailed and called Thursday and Friday and wasn't really told anything, that I would or wouldn't get it or how long it could take, they just dont answer anything) I called South Africa Airlines to find out how much it would cost to move my flight one day (for friday 14th instead of thursday 13) and well the answer was $685 dollars - to change my flight 24h.  
So, now that I KNOW I don't have my passport I have to move EVERYTHING around because there is no chance in hell im paying $700 dollars for 24h (not including what my flight Panama-Washington change is going to cost). 

The plan so far: 
1 - Originally I was scheduled to go to the Thanda Photography Conservation project from Sept. 16-October 14, travel for 2 weeks and then begin on Nov. 1 my Sodwana Bay conservation volunteering. 
2 - The Sodwana project begins the 1st of every month. 
3 - Solution: Change my Sodwana Bay volunteer to the month of October instead of November. And change Thanda to begin Nov. 11 - Dec. 9.
4 - Change my South African tickets could cost me $400 dollars (changing both ways), which would mean I can go the 18th or the 20th and come back December 17th. 

Basically, I move everything about a week. It's still a LOT of money because that was basically the money I had to spend IN South Africa but I can't really think of any other solution. Only inconvenience is the time change, I can't hear back from any of the coordinators confirming my changes until tomorrow between 2-3 a.m but I know that I have to change my tickets ASAP so I guess I'll just have to change them and hope for the best.




Life has taught me everything happens for a reason even though we might not always or ever understand those reasons. I know there had to be a reason for my brother dying, even though I might not want to recognize it. All this ordeal had to happen for a reason, maybe to relax and not stress about money so much (even though I am freaking the eff out over all this money that changing tickets will cost), perhaps its because I was meant to be in Panama this week and enjoy time with my mom who is on vacations and my grandparents who happen to be here this week. I honestly do not know WHY all this happened, why I had to deal with such awful people at the consulate and why seriously ever little thing that could have gone wrong - did! (including the fact that I was dialing 30min straight to contact the consulate, and when someone important actually picked up (a south african not the venezuelan bitchy secretary) my cellphone ran out of minutes and cut the call). Life simply works strangely, I think we're never really supposed to understand it (it would become pretty boring don't you think?). So now, im off to making a bunch of calls and hoping for the best, I guess I have one more week in Panama to enjoy.


This post may sound all cheery and happy but trust me, my eyes still get watery with frustration when I have to explain what happened to someone and im still really upset about it...but I know, inside, everything I just wrote..perhaps writing it down makes it more "real" to me and I can really assimilate it.  

Stress, whining, and friends

Beware, this is a pretty complain-y post...too bad, its just one of those weeks.

This week has not been going great. My visa application has been awfully stressful and having a venezuelan lady with some serious attitude problems be the one who answers the phone to give me bad news (I have to dial many times before they actually pick up) does not help. Turns out the need the papers I sent from where I'll be volunteering to have a stamp...yes, a stamp. A regular stamp that has the companies name. Seriously, stamps haven't been used in ages! That's what one of the companies told me, so...my days begin  my opening my eyes and having e-mail conversations with people across the world trying to figure out what they can do to help me get my visa...but when some of those e-mails say "things don't look good...talked to the project manager and there was a similar case about some stamps and the person had to end up cancelling". Here's the thing, I CAN'T (yes, the right word would be WON'T) cancel! Not only have more than 70% of my saving been spent already, this trip is in my life plan...I mean, what else will I do these upcomming months? I need to do this...for myself!

So, this visa stress began on Monday because not only is all this incredibly annoying and frustrating but I am also traveling to Bogotá next Wednesday...meaning, I need my passport back! Well, that would be $60 for getting my passport sent back + another $60 for resending it to re-apply + $60 for getting it back...and having about 20 nervous breakdowns in between because I'll need it to travel back from Bogota on the 2nd anyway.

So, option 2: Get an emergency passport! It automatically cancels my other passport but it doesnt matter because I need the visa on my passport, even though it isn't valid anymore as a traveling document (like when your passport expires but you have your U.S visa on it...the visa still works!). It will cost me $150 and a morning full of running around and sweating under panamanian humidity. That day will be tommorow, I need to drop off my mom at work, fight against traffic and pray for a parking spot, make my "denuncia" (spanglish, get used to it...don't remember the english word right now) then go to the Colombian consulate which is ALWAYS full (seriously, it wouldn't be a colombian consulate if it wasn't always full) and do all the paperwork necessary, go to a bank nearby and pay $150 dollars (although in Colombia i costs 150.000 COP (half) ). With this done I think I'll be able to de-stress just a little bit.

Besides all that visa stuff, IM SICK! Yup, woke up Tuesday morning with a really sore throat and it has simply gotten worst over the week, my ears hurting now. I went to the doctor today, he basically said it was nothing and sent me some meds (homeopatic everything)...still, $100. 

Can't complain too much though, yesterday was the foundation celebration of Panama La Vieja so schools were off meaning I was able to go tuesday afternoon to El Valle to spend the day with one of my best friends, Maria T. and her awesome bf, JacobO! It was a great trip, short but great...wine, blackout, broken glass, lamp-lit veggie lasagna dinner, passing out on the couch in less than a min (that was just me, I was exhausted...they danced around and bothered me). The next day I woke up first, stressed over my visa as I held an hour-long email conversation with someone in England trying to help me out...then yummy breakfast and a hike to La India Dormida. Now...that hike was a serious, serious kick to my ego. I feel I have never been in such a poor physical state, its disgusting (didn't help that I had to be weighed in at the doctor today..."omfg" was my reaction to my weight). And yes, I know, I have to get off my ass and actually exercise and then close my mouth and stop eating bread daily (my uncle is an awesome baker and has an awesome bakery...its HARD!), and cut out all my daily desserts. But mainly, I need to exercise again...I realized I haven't exercised in approximately 7 months (with a 3-4 week interval of Insanity which I loved!). I need to get back on track...somehow. I just get home SO tired from work, its insane...I love the kids but for reals, they are like little energy vampires, its amazing how tired I am from working 5 hours a day!

Here are some pics from Wednesday:

Cutes
Pre-sweatyness 

I love living in Panama

We did the same dorky face without knowing

Sadly we missed this waterfall on the way down but we were able to find another great spot to jump in

I love them

Not so great pic, pero tengo que salir en alguna foto!

  

We are good at doing stupid poses

On our way down!

Wednesday (besides getting my ass kicked by the mountain) was fun. The drive back home sucked though, I was so tired and really needed a co-pilot to keep me awake at some points.

I love Maria and Jake, but being with them in this trip made me miss Mr. P more...

This week I've really missed him, being all stressed out over visa and other little decisions I have to make and not having him around is hard...I normally don't say it, to anyone (except today when I told my awesome cousin). I guess I don't like sounding vulnerable to people, I still feel I have to portray this image of being a strong, independent woman for some reason and it might come off as rude or insensitive but I do miss him, a lot. 

Hopefully everything will work out...my dad keeps telling me that whatever happens is meant to be, if I don't get my visa then it's because some white shark in Cape Town had me planned for dinner. I try to tell him that it does matter, and all the money I put in to it, but he tells me to take it easy and just wait and see what happens...which to me is pretty ironic considering how he stresses over money and well, I do to because of him (a good and bad thing at times). 

Here are a couple more pictures of my summer so far, these were two weeks ago at a Happy Hour raising money for the Panamanian Flag Football Team who is competing in Sweden right now. One of my best friends, Victor (we paddled together when I was 16 and he's like a brother to me), is in the team and it was a great chance to meet up with friends and talk non-stop.

I love how the SlowSync Flash makes it seem like we were having some crazy wild time when it was a very chilled out night. 

S.A here I come!!... well..almost

I did it! My first international bank transfer...I have oficially paid both my photography and marine conservation volunteer programs, I have bought my plane tickets...and I only have like $1,000 left for, well, everything! I'm scared about the money stuff but im excited, with everything bought already I know I'm going there no matter what and I'll worry about food and hotels during my weeks of travel laters (I'm a very cheap traveler...just ask my mom whom I made sleep at Munich airport just so we'd save the cab fare).
Now I need to get all my papers in order to send my passport out for the visa application - THAT makes me nervous, especially because I need my passport back on time to go to Bogota for my graduation. I also need to buy my insurance tommorow morning, not sure about getting normal or premium though. The difference is $50,000 vs $250,000 for coverage and like $85 difference in total so...I'll probably get the premium, its not that much more and honestly better be safe than sorry!


I have no idea how I'll fall asleep tonight, too excited about life! I'm gonna go give a try though, goodnight everyone!

Carta abierta

Amigos y familia, en unos días estoy de cumpleaños y en un mes recibo mi diploma de graduanda de Antropología de la universidad. Les escribo contandoles mis planes en los meses que vienen y una *sugerencia* sobre algun regalo que quiza esten pensando darme. Para mi pedir cosas no es fácil pero en este caso la necesidad y entusiasmo le gana a la pena y me lanzo a escribirles…

Como ya muchos sabrán me voy a Sudafrica en septiembre por tres meses. Llego a Johanesburgo el 13 de septiembre y el 16 comienzo un mes en una reserva llamada Thanda a 3 horas de Durban, enfocandome en mi fotografia de naturaleza y apoyando a las investigaciones de conservacion asi como los programas educativos.

Después, del 14-31 de octubre tengo dos semanas de puro viaje. Encontré un bus tipo hop-on-hop-of diseñado para viajeros backpackers asi que pienso comprar el pase de 14 días y viajar de Durban hasta Cape Town donde me quedare unos días. En Cape Town definitivamente me metere en una jaula a conocer tiburones blancos (esta la opcion de hacer snorkeling pero creo que ese ya es un riesgo bastante alto y no estoy segura de querer tomarlo). De Cape Town vuelo a Durban nuevamente donde cojo bus a Richards Bay.

El 1 de noviembre estaré en Richards Bay para comenzar otro mes en un voluntariado de conservacion marina que se enfoca en recolectar informacion del ecosistema de la zona (Mar Indico), principalmente se enfoca en las poblaciones de tortugas y tiburon ballena pero tambien delfines y manta rayas. Será un mes totalmente marino donde voy a hacer cursos de buceo en las areas que me interese. Termino el 1 de diciembre y regreso a este lado del mundo el 6 de diciembre, esos 4 dias (viajo el 6 madrugado) estare conociendo Johannesburgo.

Como se imaginaran para todo eso necesito…plata! Ya tengo suficiente para los tiquetes y programas a los que voy a participar, pero les escribo pidiendo su ayuda, donacion, regalo, como quieran decirle, para poder costearme mis dos semanas de viaje. Si me conocen bien saben que viajando soy muy ahorrativa asi que la verdad lo que me puedan dar sera aprovechado al maximo y una gran ayuda! Todo mi viaje estare registrandolo en mi blog www.mariantoslittlebox.blogspot.com asi que podrán seguirme en mis aventuras y ver su regalito lo mucho que me ayuda!

Muchas gracias por tomarse el tiempo de leer este “mensajito”! Les mando un abrazo muy grande a todos!